Wattage of NL3?

zam · Joined: Apr 07, 2008 Posts: 8 Location: australia

Hi, can anyone tell me what the wattage consumption of the Nord Lead 3 (115V US version) is? I have looked through the manual, and searched the net, but cant find any info so far...

I live in Australia and just bought an American NL3 (my first synth too... very excited!). Although I am still waiting for it in the post, I have been researching US to AUS power issues and step down transformers. Ive read a few similar threads here regarding it all but I am still not certain.

Today i bought this: http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/47f9e6bf00efec08273fc0a87f9c071e/Product/View/M1153

The man at the store didnt seem to know too much about it either, which left me a bit worried. Is this what I need, or would 500W be overkill and somehow damage my NL3? I am also planning on running a second synth simultaneously, a Roland JP 8080 off the transformer.

Please excuse my electrical ignorance, I just want to be certain before I plug anything in!

Wout Blommers · Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 3:11 am Post subject:

:welcom: zam

I hope you can return your transformer, because when you open up your NL3 you'll find a little switch which can be set to 230 (240 Volts). Then you have to change the fuse too (Don't know which value, though, but it can be found in this forum...), which is far less money the a transformer.

Wout

Wout Blommers · Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 3:18 am Post subject:

Found it!

Fuse for 230V = 100 mA Slow Blow

Still, it isn't the answer to your initial question, Watt = Volt x Ampere, so 230 x 0.1 = 23 Watt at the most... Then the fuse will blow, slowly, that is Smile

Jan, tell me I'm right Smile

Wout

blue hell · Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 5:08 am Post subject:

The fuse will not blow Cool

To be clear, there are two options :

1) Use the auto transformer just bought and change nothing on the synth, the transformer seems suitable although it is a bit overkill in power (but that will destroy nothing, and it allows for a couple of synths more).

2) Modify the synth to work on 220/230 Volt and do not use the transformer. Modifying the synth is a matter of opening it, setting the internal power switch into the correct position and changing the fuse to the value indicated by Wout.

Wout Blommers · Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 5:42 am Post subject:

But...
Is the Watt of the synth somewhat less then 23 Watt or not? At least, not more then 23 Watt?

Wout

blue hell · Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 6:57 am Post subject:

At least not more ...

Wout Blommers · Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 7:02 am Post subject:

Thanks, Jan!
I can sleep tonight.

Wink

Wout

zam · Joined: Apr 07, 2008 Posts: 8 Location: australia

Thanks for the informative replies guys! Long term I would like to convert the NL3 to AUS power, only then Ill still have a US JP 8080 on my hands, which I have no idea about in regards to doing the same power conversion... Anyone know anything about this?

So the NL3 is ~ 23W, is that pretty standard for all synths? If so I might return my transformer for a cheaper 250W one or something...

Also, Im still a little confused about this 'switch' inside the NL3, when you guys refer to this, is it a physical on/off switch that an electrical retard like me could do, or does it involve soldering a connection or something?

blue hell · Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 6:00 pm Post subject:

Just open the machine Laughing

It is switch like switch, one that you can switch without soldering.

To open the synth ... unplug the mains ... two black screws on the sides, the frontmost ones the other two (with plastic washers) are hinges. A couple on the back, like four or five and one or two at the bottom side - they all are the same size.

Then it should flip open. It's pretty hard to damage it doing this, it should open up easily - when not you forgot a screw.

Wout Blommers · Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 9:53 pm Post subject:

zam · Joined: Apr 07, 2008 Posts: 8 Location: australia

Thanks again guys.

Wout - Dont be sorry! This is all really helpful, thanks

Ill let you guys know how I go with the Lead

zam · Joined: Apr 07, 2008 Posts: 8 Location: australia

Hi again,

I tried to open my NL3 up last night, but it got stuck and wouldnt budge around the area to the right of the mod wheel. The rest of the case seemed fine and able to detach except for this point. I took off all screws I could see (4 at the back, 2 on each side). Am I missing something here? Anyone else have dramas getting the case open?

zam · Joined: Apr 07, 2008 Posts: 8 Location: australia

Also, in this thread:

http://electro-music.com/forum/viewtopic.php?highlight=150&t=21906

Discussion over what was the correct fuse was 125mA, which Blue Hell changed to 150mA when dorremifasol said the back of his Nord Lead said:

115v~
300mA Slow Blow

Which mine does also. Can someone confirm whether it is 100, 125, or 150mA that Id need? Thanks!

Wout Blommers · Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 3:14 am Post subject:

Wout Blommers · Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 3:30 am Post subject:

zam · Joined: Apr 07, 2008 Posts: 8 Location: australia

Ahhhhh Im so stupid I actually noticed those bottom two screws not long after I posted that. Thanks though Wout.

So sorry to come back to the fuse again, but after I opened my Nord up I couldn't work out where or what fuse it was that is needed to replace. To tell you the truth I barely know what a fuse would look like... Ive added an attachment - a rough pic of my power section inside my nord.

The only thing I could see that I thought would be the fuse ive pointed to with the red arrows - but theres two of these that are exactly the same! Do I replace both of these?

Sorry for all the double and triple checking guys, Im just scared to death about blowing up my red baby!

psu copy.jpg

Description:

Filesize:

51.53 KB

Viewed:

326 Time(s)

This image has been reduced to fit the page. Click on it to enlarge.

Wout Blommers · Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 5:27 am Post subject:

Don't hesitate to ask! Indeed, better asked twice then destroying your gear!

Neither of both is the fuse. In fact, the fuse is inside the black tube at the right on the board, BUT no need to do anything to the board. A fuse is always in reach for replacements from the outside of the synth. (I don't have a NL2X, so I look at the NL2, assuming it's the same) Next to the power button on the back is a little disc, about 1 cm diameter, which has a little slit on the surface. Using a screwdriver unscrew the little disc and the fuse will being pushed out by a little spring. Better to open it pushing back, so the fuse AND the spring wouldn't be launched into your room Smile

It's a little glass tube, mostly with two iron caps at both sides. One of the caps has some writing on it, mostly the value. Put the new fuse the same way in... It doesn't matter, which side is in front and which isn't, but maybe you'll feel better about it this way and you won't start being in doubt about it ) Just teasing!! Wink

Screw the cap back in place and all is ready!

Wout

zam · Joined: Apr 07, 2008 Posts: 8 Location: australia

Nice... Wow, Ive just been looking in ALL the wrong places so far havnt I! Oh well if anything it might help out others in the future. Thanks again Wout

Wout Blommers · Posted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 4:03 am Post subject:

There is no writing anywhere which tells you have to be a full trained engineer to play a synthesizer, isn't it?

I just hope all works out.
Let us know!

Wout